I was for one week in Lebanon. Five days in Beirut and two in Tripoli. Here, i like to share some notes and recommendations.
Expect a mix of pulsating life, fantastic food, but also traces of the civil war and poverty. If you like to get into the political history of the country, join the Alternative Political Tour by Alternative Beirut. In Beirut there are two districts in the city centre, Hamra and Gemmayzeh. Areas, where you can stroll along, find cafes to hangout, good food, art and culture and a lot of street art. If you are into art, the Sursock Museum is a good start and it is the most important art institute for decades. An amazing building and a wonderful collection. I highly recommend the Dalloul Art Foundation. They have contemporary artworks from the artists of the region. To visit you have to make a reservation online. During my stay in Beirut there was a great temporary exhibition of photography “Beirut 1840-1918, Photographs & Maps” at Beit Beirut (website and social media are outdated). The building was close to the Green Line during the civil war. And still you can see traces of the destruction. Two galleries to check out: Sfeir-Semler and Marfa Proejects. More on the outskirts of the city, you can find the aishti foundation. A private collection in a new space. Good stuff, with a focus on more international art. If you are going to Tripoli, you can ask the driver of the busses to drop you there on the way back. For my itinerary, next time I will try to visit the Beirut Art Center (was closed, for preparation of the new exhibition) and The Arab Image Foundation (will reopen after relocation in autumn 2023).
If you want to get an impression from the street art of Beirut and Tripoli, I will post the photos on my insta: @street_art_berlin starting with the famous portrait of Sabah by Yazan Halwani
Food: Beirut: T Marbouta and Tripoli: Beit El Mina
Traveling between Beirut and Tripoli is easy. The busses of the company Connexion drive each day several times. Starting points are in Beirut: Martyr Square and in Tripoli: Nour Square. The cost for one way was 300.000 LBP / 3.33 Euro. Well, money. Don’t exchange any money before you enter the Lebanon. The rate is different. If you check right now on the web, they will tell you Oct, 6, 2023, the rate is 5,69 Euro for 90000LBP, but in the Lebanon the legal rate is just 1 Euro for 90000LBP. And please bring Cash, Dollars are welcome everywhere. With Euros you can pay in Hotels and exchange them to LBP.
Public transport does not really exist. You have some Dolmus (shared) busses which go along some basic lines. If you find out, that they go the right way, they are efficient and cheap. They cost just 10% of an Uber ride. And in Tripoli some Tuc Tuc motor bikes do the same, but with the opportunity to bring you to the desired destination.
In Tripoli I visited the old abandoned fair grounds. Once designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the construction was interrupted by the start of the civil war. Today, 50 years later it is still in the unfinished state. It Is just open to the public the last two or three hours before the sun goes down. People, go for a walk or doing sports. A unique place of concrete constructions and nature. You can just walk in the geometric pavilions, enjoy the outstanding acoustic and hangout at a place which was a promised future.
